Wednesday, October 2, 2019

Carysfort Lighthouse & the Ghost of Captain Johnson

It's that season again, when lighthouse ghosts appear and we tell their stories. Hardly a lighthouse exists that does not have some ghost tale attached to it. I hope you like this one!



A few years ago, I began writing a novel for young readers (tweens, as we call them) about a young girl in the late-1890s, named Libby, who knows much about lighthouses and the sea. Her father was a sea captain and her great uncle is the skipper of the lighthouse tender Arbutus. It sails the southeast coast delivering supplies to lighthouses. Libby's great uncle is taking her to Sanibel Lighthouse to live for a year before she goes to a school for young ladies in New Orleans. On the way, the Arbutus stops at several lighthouses. The following Chapter 2 excerpt details fifteen-year-old Libby's visit to Carysfort Reef Lighthouse in the Florida Strait. There, she and her Scotty dog, Duffy, meet the keepers, dine with them, and spend the night on the huge iron lighthouse. Libby, as you'll read, takes a "shine" to the youngest lightkeeper, a handsome young man named Vincent. And, as you might imagine, things go bump in the night on Carysfort Lighthouse!



Chapter 2

The Ghost of Captain Johnson

Thumping sounds on the deck above wake me.  Duffy is standing by the door whining, no doubt needing to relieve himself.  As a puppy traveling on the Arbutus, he has learned to use a dirt box, much the way a cat does.  Uncle Caleb made the box for him when we came aboard the Arbutus, and it is obvious he is anxious to get to it.
            "Yes, Duffy.  I'll hurry.  Let me pull on my dress and shoes and straighten my hair." 
            I make myself presentable and open the cabin door.  Duffy scurries to the ladder and leaps up three rungs on his own before allowing me to carry him the remainder of the way.  Once topside, he runs toward the stern and disappears around some buoy chains to find his box.
            The morning air is brisk, alive with the shouts of the crew as they prepare to dock at Carysfort Reef Lighthouse.  I step to the starboard rail and see the huge metal lighthouse in the distance.  It resembles a giant birdcage, and for a moment I imagine a monstrous seagull nesting inside it.  Papa always said I have great imagination.
By the excitement and business of the crew, I judge we have dropped anchor and the launch is being readied.  The reef is so shallow the Arbutus cannot steam too close to the lighthouse for fear of grounding.  Supplies, mail, and visitors are transferred to the tower aboard a smaller vessel called a launch.
            Several men are gathered about the scuttlebutt, a barrel of drinking water.  They wave and motion for me to join them.  A ladle of cold water is offered, which I gratefully accept.
            "Goin' aboard the lighthouse, Miss Libby?" asked Mr.Burns, one of the hoistmen.  "The keepers there is a lonely lot.  Do ‘em good to see a young lass like yerself.  And 'ey'll be layin' a fine table too."
            His Scottish accent delights me.  I notice his powerful hands as he gives me the ladle to drink from.  As a hoistman, his job running the windlass requires strength and brains.  He must see that heavy cargo is safely moved from the lighthouse tender to the launch by a derrick equipped with pulleys.
            "Oh, yes, Mr. B.  I wouldn't miss it.  The keepers are wonderful cooks, I'm told.  Uncle Caleb said to eat only a biscuit this morning, as they will want us to have a big late-morning breakfast with them."
            "Aye, and they've hens, too, for eggs.  You can see ‘em cluckin’ about on the deck next to the dwellin’.  May be that Mr. Hodges 'll 'ave puddin’.  Tapioca puddin’. Will ye bring me some?"
            I giggle and point to the pocket of my dress:  "Aye, Mr. B.  I'll sneak you some pudding in my pocket!"
            A hearty laugh passes around the circle of men, but shouts from the helm make them scatter to their appointed places, leaving me alone at the water barrel.  I scoop out a handful and splash it over my face.  It makes me shudder, so cold it is.  I am looking forward to a long, hot bath when I reached Sanibel Island.
            I watch as the crew rigs the derrick and begins moving heavy cargo from the deck of the Arbutus to the launch.  Mr. Burns expertly maneuvers the windlass and hoist, lifting boxes and crates and pallets filled with coal bags and oil drums, sacks of flour and sugar.  I look toward the lighthouse in the distance and squint my eyes, trying to see the hens he mentioned.  There are tiny dots moving about on the lighthouse deck – men, maybe a dog, perhaps the smallest ones hens. 
Doc quietly moves next to me and hands me a biscuit.
            “Might be an hour or two before you sit down to breakfast, Libby. Best have something to keep the walls of your stomach from rubbing together.  Have you packed an overnight bag?  Your uncle plans to stay the night, I’m told.”
            “Oh…yes.  I will, Doc,” I reply, a bit surprised by this news. “Staying on the lighthouse at night should be fun!”
            “Hmmph!” Doc says folding his arms.  “You wouldn’t get me to stay in that metal contraption for all of Captain Kidd’s pirate gold!”
            I smile, remembering the crew talking of the ghost that supposedly haunts the lighthouse.
            The Arbutus seems to take forever to ready the launch.  Though I know enough about ships and navigating to appreciate the delicate maneuvering required to safely move heavy cargo, I am anxious to get to the lighthouse.  It’s a famous one in these waters, the first of a string of tall iron lighthouses built along the treacherous Florida Reef.  In fact, as Doc explains, its foundation is anchored into the reef.
            “Built in the 1840s by a famous engineer named George Meade,” Doc says.  “Bet you know that name, Libby, from your studies of the Civil War.”
             I rub my chin, pretending not to know, then let my eyes brighten like a lightbulb is going on in my head: “Yes!  General George Gorden Meade!  Wasn’t he the Union general who defeated General Robert E. Lee at Gettysburg?”
            “One and the same,” replies Doc.  “Some say it was the turning point of the war, the battle that was the beginning of the end for the Confederacy.  Such a bad time it was, Libby.  I lost a dear friend at Antietam, and my brother came home from the Battle of the Wilderness missing an arm. Lucky for me, I was in the South Pacific at the time working on a whaleship, or I might have been in the thick of it too.”
“Oh, I’m glad you weren’t in the war, Doc. So sorry about your friend and brother,” I say, and quickly change the subject.  “So Meade also built lighthouses?”
“Oh yes.  Many of them, long before the war.  He built the first screwpile lighthouse in the nation, at Brandywine Shoal in the Delaware Bay.  Big hulking iron thing with tube legs anchored into the bay floor.  Folks said it wouldn’t last a month, but it still stands.  Meade did such a fine job on it the government sent him to Florida to build the reef lights.”
Doc motions toward Carysfort Reef Lighthouse.
“I was a young lad when it was first lit in 1852.  Meade devised special screw-shaped feet for each leg.  There are nine legs, called piles, in all.  Each one is screwed down into the coral reef and anchored firmly with a disk, a kind of shoe to hold it in place.  The open metal framework on the lighthouse lets wind and waves pass through easier than if the tower had solid walls.”
It makes sense to me.  This stretch of coast is called Hurricane Alley, and a lighthouse needs to be wind and water resistant.  I had read about the first lighthouse at Sand Key, nine miles off Key West.  Built of stone, it suffered miserably in storms until, in 1846, a powerful hurricane toppled it and killed its keeper and his family.  A screwpile lighthouse, like this one at Carysfort Reef, replaced it in 1853 and has stood strong for nearly fifty years.
            Finally, the launch is loaded and ready.  I race down to my cabin and fetch a tapestry bag for overnight items.  Back on deck, Doc and Santy and Paolo insist on hugging me, as if I’m going away forever. 
“Be careful not to tangle with old Cap’n Johnson, now!” Doc warns. 
“Yes, and leave him on the lighthouse when you come back,” Santy adds.  “We’ve trouble enough on this ship.  No need of a ghost!”
Paolo shrugs and chuckles.  He gives me a second hug and holds my arm firmly as a section of the rail is removed so that I can board the launch. I am tethered in a bos’un’s chair, with Duffy in my lap, and sent down to the launch by means of ropes and pulleys. Were it not for the launch rocking wildly below me, and my dress lifted up by the wind’s curious fingers, I might have enjoyed the unusual ride.
Uncle Caleb, wearing his blue wool uniform with the tender service insignia on the hat and his rank on the lapels of the coat, follows me down into the launch.  Several of the crew who are holding me nimbly hand me into my uncle’s strong arms.  Duffy is shivering either with excitement or fright.  I cannot tell which.  The launch pitches roughly in the waves, then moves toward the lighthouse, powered by the muscled arms of four men at the oars.
            Within minutes we draw near the iron legs of the lighthouse and tie up at the landing.  Three keepers, who peer excitedly at me from the deck, suddenly straighten and salute my uncle, who returns their tribute.  Little is said until I am safely handed up to the keepers and planted firmly on the landing platform, along with Duffy.  I turn and peer into the most beautiful eyes I’ve ever seen, those of the youngest lightkeeper.  Slowly, he releases his hold on my arm and smiles, patting my dog. 
My uncle is soon beside us, sighing with great relief that we’ve arrived safely.  Uncle Caleb brushes off his jacket a bit, smiles broadly, and shakes hands with the keepers.  They wear uniforms, somewhat similar to my uncle’s, but with different insignia.  Uncle Caleb clears his throat and makes introductions:
            “May I present my great-niece, Olivia Spenser, daughter of my sister’s son, Captain Jonathan Spenser. And, of course, her dog, Duffy. He has more sea time than most sailors!  Libby, meet Captain Herman Hodges, principle keeper of Carysfort Reef Lighthouse, and his assistants, Peter Simonson and Vincent Tremont.”
            Captain Hodges carefully offers his right hand – a perfectly normal hand with all fingers intact – tips his hat and gives a polite nod.  He pats Duffy’s head and mutters something about a “salty sea dog.”  The assistants also nod to me politely.  Mr. Tremont – the one with the beautiful eyes – seems hardly older than me, but I know he must be at least eighteen to be in the lighthouse service.
            “I am well-acquainted with your father, Miss Spenser,” Captain Hodges says, smiling warmly.  “We’ve passed many an hour together in port, for I was master of a fishing schooner before the war left me with this infirmity.”
            He slaps his stiff right leg, a wooden leg that gives off a muffled thump.  I notice three fingers missing on his left hand and realize there was a bit of truth to the story Santy told.
            “Ah, this,” he says holding up his maimed hand, with only a thumb and index finger remaining.  “A fishing accident.  Fed three fingers to a shrimp net when I was a hand on the schooner La Petite out of New Orleans.  I was just a boy then.  I’ve learned to operate just as well without them.”
            As proof, he quickly unbuttons and rebuttons his blue wool jacket.  I’m impressed and giggle politely with delight.  Duffy is mistrustful, however, and utters a soft growl.  Captain Hodges makes a scary face, and this sets Duffy barking.
            “Is this any way to treat the crew of Carysfort Reef Light, Sir Pooch?” the captain asks Duffy.  “Why, you’ll change your opinion of us a bit when you see what’s for breakfast!”
            Mr. Tremont heads off to help the crew unload the launch, while Mr. Simonson excuses himself and heads up the ladder into the quarters – a round metal house set within the iron legs of the tower. He goes to work in the kitchen.  Already, the smell of baked ham is wafting outside.  My stomach growls impatiently.  The crew of the launch and Mr. Tremont have begun hauling crates and boxes and drums of kerosene onto the landing.  They sing as they work, making the heavy chore easier to bear. 
The hens now appear from a box-shaped little house on the far-side of the landing and begin clucking in anticipation.
            “Yes, yes, do come out now!  They’ve brought cracked corn for you biddies!” Captain Hodges says, shooing them away. 
Duffy growls again, but I quiet him.  There are five hens, all plump Plymouth White Rocks, and one rooster who struts haughtily.  Captain Hodges introduces each one by name – Maria, Antonia, Isabella, Carmen, and Juanita, plus Ulysses the rooster.  The hens, he says, are named for his Cuban wife and four daughters who live in Key West and are the finest cooks and seamstresses in the entire South.  The rooster takes the name of Union general and post-war president, Ulysses S. Grant, under whom Keeper Hodges long ago proudly served and lost his leg.
            “Such an arrogant sort old Ulysses is,” Captain Hodges says, pointing to the proud fowl.  “Thinks he’s king around here.  Chases Mr. Simonson when he’s got potato rinds to discard and fights with the gulls.  Yet, he’s the first to run for cover when there’s a thunderstorm.  Ha!”
            As we head up the ladder to the quarters for breakfast I begin to sense the loneliness of this place, where hens are named for the head keeper’s much-missed family and even a crotchety old rooster is granted a noble title.
            The quarters are small but sufficient for three men.  The walls are curved and set with broad windows to allow in light and air on two levels.  The kitchen, storerooms, and office are below; sleeping rooms are above.  Spiraling up through the house is the metal stair cylinder leading to the lantern.
Mr. Simonson is all smiles as we sit down at a simple linen-covered table for a late morning breakfast in the kitchen. Plates of steaming baked ham, fried potatoes with onions, boiled okra, fried eggs, freshly-baked brea,d and jars of orange marmalade cause my stomach to roar in expectation.  An apple cobbler sits on the cookstove, keeping warm.  Captain Hodges invites Uncle Caleb and me to choose seats.  Duffy is given a plate of ham and eggs on the floor.  Captain Hodges says grace, being mindful to thank God for his guests and the many provisions they are bringing.  Then Mr. Simonson serves, pouring the men coffee and honey-sweetened tea for me.  He slips an orange into my hand and winks.
            “A treat for you, Miss Spenser.  A gentleman near Miami brings these to us from his orchard. Shall I squeeze the juice into a glass, or would you rather eat the whole fruit?”
            “Whole, please,” I say, relishing the memory of oranges, lemons, tangerines, grapefruits and limes Papa kept aboard the Angela to ward off scurvy and other illnesses at sea.  Mr. Simonson cuts the orange into quarters, and I suck the pulpy goodness from one as the men watch in amusement.
            “And do you know how to make an orange smile, Miss Spenser?” Captain Hodges asks.  “My children always made us laugh doing this at breakfast when they were little.”
            The captain grabs an orange quarter and pops it onto his teeth, then draws his lips over it in a big, orange smile.  I gasp, then burst into peels of laughter.  He looks so funny in his fancy brass-buttoned uniform, with a cloth napkin tucked under his chin and that bright orange smile!
            After breakfast, we have a tour of the lighthouse.  Up the winding staircase we go, Duffy tucked under my arm, up 112-feet above sea.  Uncle Caleb notes the excellent condition of the tower and its illuminating apparatus.  The prism lens is polished to perfection and ready for the coming night.  Captain Hodges says that the new system for collecting rainwater also is working well.  It has solved the problem of dangerous lead particles from the lighthouse’s red paint getting into the drinking water.  I listen with great interest as he explains how during thunderstorms rainwater that falls on the lighthouse roof is directed to pipes that run into a cistern, or collection tank.  Since the rainwater passes over painted parts of the lighthouse, it is allowed to run freely over the tower for about five minutes to clean off any lead particles. Then, cocks are turned to divert the rain into the cistern.
            “We don’t have to scrub the roof as much anymore either,” adds Captain Hodges.  “The flush of that first rain cleans it well before we pipe the water into the cistern. But the seabirds…they’re still a nuisance.  Like to perch up there and make a mess.”
            I look up at the cupola some eighty feet above the dwelling and dizzily wonder who would be brave enough to climb that high and clean away the bird poop.  I suppose it isn’t much different from climbing the mainmast to the crow’s nest on my father’s ship.  I have done that often with Papa.
            “Mr. Tremont is nimble,” says the captain, patting the youngest keeper on the back.  Mr. Tremont is polishing the lens but pauses to look my way.  “We usually send him up to scrub the roof when the first rain falls.”
            I study Mr. Tremont when he isn’t looking at me.  He is, truly, a handsome young man.  His hair falls in jet black curls about his forehead and on the back of his neck, and his eyes are a strange green color flecked with brown, or it gold?  I am entranced by the fine mold of his nose, an aquiline shape than when in profile reminds me of a picture of a Roman gladiator I once saw in a book.  His hands are strong, yet delicate, as if they might hold a baby bird as easily as grasp a heavy drum of oil.  I am disappointed when Captain Hodges offers to help me down the service ladder into the watchroom, leaving Mr. Tremont behind in the lantern.  Studying him was a pleasant reverie, something I’ve never cared to do with any of the crew of Papa’s ship or the men of the Arbutus.  There is, indeed, something different about Mr. Tremont.
            The men spend all day transporting supplies to the lighthouse, while the assistant keepers busy themselves putting away provisions and kerosene.  After the tour, I wander about the house with Duffy, then we go down to the landing and hand-feed the chickens from the barrel of cracked corn and grain that has been unloaded.  Duffy would rather chase the chickens, but old Ulysses proves a formidable foe and guards his feathered harem.  Duffy, nicked by one of Ulysses’ spurs, is sent whining to my side.
Mr. Simonson brings me a fishing pole and some bait and shows me how to fish from the landing.  After a few hours of dangling the hook in the opaline reef water, I’ve caught nothing.  Duffy snores at my side, having decided some time ago he’d rather nap than fish. Mr. Simonson returns, this time with oatmeal cookies and cold tea.  He takes the fishing pole and soon catches a fine red snapper which he says was meant for me to catch and will make an excellent chowder for supper.  Later at supper, a light meal like suppers on the Arbutus, he rants on and on about my fishing talents and praises the fine fish he says I caught.  Mr. Tremont offers his praise as well, and I find myself embarrassed.
            After dinner, Mr. Conroy returns to the Arbutus, but Uncle Caleb, Duffy, and I remain on the lighthouse.  As Doc said, we will stay the night, since Uncle Caleb wants to observe the lighting up of the beacon and check the operation of the lens.  I suspect he also anticipates an enjoyable evening with the lightkeepers.  Except for Mr. Tremont, who is new on the lighthouse, they are all old friends.  They will swap stories, smoke pipes, and play cards.
For the first time, I am given the opportunity to see a lighthouse beacon kindled, and it is truly an amazing thing to behold.  Shortly before dusk, Uncle Caleb, Duffy, and I accompany Captain Hodges and Mr. Tremont up the tight spiral stairs to the watchroom.  The metal stairway is still quite warm from the heat it absorbed from the mid-April day.  In the watchroom, Uncle Caleb checks the logbook and weather journal.  Mr. Tremont points out an entry from March when a flock of migrating birds stormed the tower.  He drew a picture of one that landed on the catwalk above, a very fine sketch.  I tell him he has great talent, and he blushes, abashed to receive a compliment from a lady, even one as young as me.
In the lantern we watch as Captain Hodges checks the lamps and winds the weights for the clockworks that will turn the lens.  Mr. Tremont has each lamp filled and trimmed, ready for the first watch of the night.  Under Captain Hodges direction, he lights up the huge first-order lens, carefully adjusting each wick so that it burns clean and clear.  One by one, the lamps flicker to life and send their light through the prisms of the great crystal lens.  The beams are twisted together, concentrated, and transformed into a piercing ray.  As the lens begins to revolve, from the pull of the clockworks, the rays are shot through the bulleyes into the twilight air in magnificent flashes where they will provide succor to ships miles away from the reef. 
The amazing process by which the light is concentrated and magnified was developed in 1823 by a French physicist named Jean-Augustin Fresnel.  Mr. Tremont tells me Fresnel’s amazing lenses revolutionized lighthouse illumination by making brilliant beams visible far at sea and creating a flash characteristic for each lighthouse.  Before their invention, there were only a few flashing lights, and beams reached only a few miles at sea.
“It’s an amazing system,” says Mr. Tremont, “but it requires much work for us, the keepers. We must polish the crystal prisms and the brass framework each day until they are spotless.  The gears must be oiled and the clockworks mechanism kept clean of dirt. I spend much of my time doing this brightwork, as we call it.  I clean the lantern windows each day as well.”
I glance outside at the narrow catwalk surrounding the lantern.  Mr. Tremont seems to read my mind:
“Would you like to stand on the lantern catwalk, Miss Spenser?  It’s a wonderful view.”
I give Duffy to Uncle Caleb, who is still inspecting the lens with Captain Hodges. Mr. Tremont and I slide through the small access door to the catwalk, the narrow walkway outside the lantern. I suspect even an agile cat might find this high place unnerving.  Wind buffets my face the moment I enter the outside world of the lighthouse top.  My hair begins a wild dance, unloosing the ribbon I tied in the back this morning to add some decoration.  Mr. Tremont catches it just in time, a moment before the mischievous night wind steals it.  He laughs as he hands it back to me, and for a second his fingers touch mine.
“Look there,” he says, pointing northeast.  Fowey Rocks Lighthouse. And there, to the southwest is Alligator Reef Light.”
He proceeds to tell me how a ship, to remain safe in the sealane along the eastern coast of Florida, ought to see a new lighthouse off its bow as an old one disappears off its stern.  Being the child of a sea captain, I know this fact, but I let him proceed with his instruction all the same. He seems to be enjoying my company, and I must admit he’s a pleasant companion.
“These lighthouses of the reef are nicknamed the Iron Giants.  All of them are made of iron and are screwed into the reef.  I served at the big one on Sombrero Key off Marathon before coming here in January.  It’s the tallest of the reef lights – 156-feet high.  If I’m lucky, I’ll go to a land light next and be promoted to first assistant.  Someday I might even be head keeper at a lighthouse.  Then I can get married and have a family.”
He pauses, somewhat embarrassed that he has gushed his personal feelings so easily.  For a moment, I imagine him standing next to a lovely young girl in a bridal gown, reciting vows.  Quickly, I push the thought away and point to a ship traveling north far out from the lighthouse.
“That’s the Gulf Stream out there isn’t it?” I ask, although I already know the answer.  “That ship wants to be in the current to get a push northward.”
“You’re right! And ships headed south try to stay outside the current and the reef so they don’t get pushed backwards.  It’s tricky navigation.  Must have been difficult before these lighthouses were built.”
Yes, I know too well the ordeal of navigating the Florida Strait.  Papa always demanded Duffy and I remain quiet and not interfere with the work on the Angela when we passed along this dangerous part of the coast.  Sometimes he would give me an old sextant and clock to practice star sights with and a journal to record my positions, or I might sit quietly on deck and read a book about the shipwrecks that occurred here or the pirates that once roamed these waters.  Once we were beyond Key West, Papa would relax a bit.  He always said sailing the Gulf side of Florida was far easier than its Atlantic side.
We descend the tower around 9:00 p.m., leaving Mr. Tremont on watch.  Mr. Simonson will take over at midnight, then Captain Hodges near dawn.  After a short mug-up in the kitchen, Mr. Simonson shows Duffy and me to our sleeping quarters, a small room in the upper level of the house with a single bed more comfortable than the straw mattress in my cabin aboard the Arbutus.  Uncle Caleb will sleep in the bunkroom with the lightkeepers.  He comes up to say prayers with me and kiss me good-night.  He tells me not to read too long, for he knows my ways.  Given a book, I am lost for hours.  From the laughter I hear from kitchen after he leaves, I know it will be hours before he sleeps.
            I open the book I’ve chosen from the lighthouse’s oak library cabinet, kept in the office below.  It’s a book of poems, my favorite reading.  They make me lonely for Papa, of course, but soon the warm glow of the oil lamp on the table next to my bed and Duffy’s quiet snoring lull me.  I put out the lamp and roll on my side.  Sleep comes quickly after a busy day in the sea air.  Papa says ocean air is the very best sleep tonic.

            How many hours I have been asleep when the uproar begins, I do not know.  It is indescribable.  I can only say I am suddenly awakened by a horrendous groan and the feeling that my bed is being shaken.  Duffy jerks awake, sits up, and growls.
            “What was that, Duffy?  You heard it, didn’t you?  That awful sound?”
            His ears perk up; still, he huddles close to me.  Minutes later another groan courses the tower, worse than the first.  Vibration wracks the bed and rattles the lamp on the table.  The pitcher in the basin on the nightstand suffers ceramic tremors.  Duffy dives beneath the blanket in fright, only his nose peeking out.  I fumble for the extra blanket beside my bed to wrap myself.  I must find Uncle Caleb and find out what calamity has beset the lighthouse.
            “Urrrrrr…eeeecchh!” it sounds again.
            Duffy is now deep inside the bedcovers.  Carefully, I feel my way toward the door.  The room is utterly dark until a faint glow from the beam of the lighthouse flashes.
            “Stay here, Duffy.  I’m going to find Uncle Caleb.”
            Outside the room I make my way to the stair cylinder.  A thin light seeps up from below, and I hear the men’s voices.  I am about to step into the stairway and call to them when another horrible groan shakes the lighthouse and a dark figure appears in front of me.  A tiny cry escapes from my throat. I begin to fall backwards. The figure approaches and I recognize the silhouette of a man.  A ghost of a man? Captain Johnson? The men on the Arbutus had warned me about him this morning.
I feel an arm circle about my waist.
            “Everything is fine, Miss Spenser. Nothing to fear.”
It’s Mr. Tremont.  His coffee-warm breath touches my cheek. I feel his whiskers, grown out since morning. He smells different than my father and different than Uncle Caleb. Netter, I think. His arm is strong. My hand passes lightly over the soft hair on his hand.
“Guess we forgot to mention that old Captain Johnson still resides in this tower,” Mr. Tremont says. “Some folks believe his ghost haunts the lighthouse.  That’s him you hear groaning.  He does it from time to time at night.  Harmless sort of wraith.  Come.  I’ll take you back to your bed. Where’s your little dog?”
            I find my voice at last: “He’s hiding in my bedcovers, poor thing.  I was just going down to find my uncle. Are you sure Captain Johnson is harmless?  He sounds so…so horrible.”
            Mr. Tremont chuckles and hugs me a bit closer.
            “Your uncle should have told you about the clamor.  I’m surprised he didn’t.  Oh well…you’re fine now, aren’t you?  At least you aren’t shivering. By the way, your uncle was called back to the Arbutus, and he didn’t want to wake you to go with him.  Said he’d come for you in the morning.”
            Mr. Tremont walks me to my room, fluffs my bed pillow a bit, and helps me get under the covers.  Duffy hasn’t budged from his hiding place and digs in deeper when another groan sounds.  Mr. Tremont kneels by the bed and takes my hand reassuringly.
            “It’s a little hard to sleep the first night you hear it, but we’ve grown accustomed to it. Only lasts an hour or so.  I guess none of us really believes it’s a ghost, but we can’t think what else it could be.  They say it’s happened here ever since the tower was built. Might have something to do with the tower’s iron construction. Metal makes funny sounds sometimes as its temperature changes.”
            “Who is this Captain Johnson?” I ask timidly. When I realize how hard I am clutching his hand, I release my grip.
            “Oh…Captain Johnson.  Yes.  He was the first keeper here.  A great sinner he was, too.  Drank and swore and refused to read his Bible.  He died on the lighthouse, and people say his spirit couldn’t get into heaven, so it roams the tower night after night.  That groaning you hear is supposed to be the old captain crying out his regret.”


            I am silent.  Papa always taught me not to believe in superstitions such as ghosts.  There’s a sensible explanation for every peculiar occurrence.  This one seems real enough though.
            “I’ll sit by your bed until you fall asleep if you like, Miss Spenser,” offers Mr. Tremont.  He touches my hand again, ever so lightly.  I am glad he, too, doesn’t believe in ghosts.
            “Thank you. I’d like that. And…and…you can call me Libby if you like….when it’s just the two of us together, I mean.  Libby is short for Olivia.”
            Though the room is almost completely dark, I sense Mr. Tremont is smiling.
            “I’d like that, calling you Libby.  It’s a lovely name…for a lovely lady.  And will you call me Vincent then?  We’ll only use our first names in private.  Captain Hodges wouldn’t approve of me acting so familiar.”
            “Oh, yes.  Of course.  Vincent.  That’s a nice name.  We’ll keep it a secret, just between us.  And thank you…Vincent…for sitting with me.  I feel so much better now.”
            “Urrrrr….eecchh!”





Perhaps you're wondering about Libby's trip to Sanibel Island Lighthouse and what happens with Libby and Vincent. Hang on! The finished novel will be published next year.

Wednesday, September 18, 2019

September at Lighthouses

My Lighthouse Almanac has been out of print for a number of years. I see old copies for sale on Amazon and eBay. People still enjoy the book, which was designed in the style of the Old Farmers Almanac. Here are some September highlights from The Lighthouse Almanac.














Painting from Expressions Art Bar





Friday, August 30, 2019

Galloo Island Lighthouse

Author Marilyn Turk has kindly allowed me to reprint one of her blogs this week. Marilyn has published many novels and inspirational books featuring lighthouses. She also interviewed me for one of her blogs. I am sure you will enjoy this one, especially if you have seen or visited Galloo Island Lighthouse! At the bottom of the blog, you'll find information on how to contact Marilyn and view her blog, "Pathways of the Heart." It is rife with heartwarming stories about lighthouses!

Courtesy of Lighthouse Friends. Website here


More than twenty lighthouse keepers and assistant keepers served at the Galloo Island Lighthouse from the time of its first lighting in 1820 until its automation in 1963. But the one who served the longest was Robert C. Graves, whose tenure spanned thirty years, first as an assistant keeper in 1903, then as the head keeper until 1933.
Galloo Island Lighthouse sits on the southern tip of Galloo Island to mark a group of islands in Lake Ontario for ships en route to either the St. Lawrence River or Sackets Harbor, New York. The 2300-acre island provided plenty of room for the keepers to have livestock, grow gardens, and raise a family.
In August 1923, a reporter wrote of the island, “The beauty and immaculateness of the grounds, and the different varieties of flowers in bloom at this season, showing the care of the nature- loving ones living there; also the little bird houses erected there … show there is one spot on God’s earth where fear is banished and the cattle and birds come to their call. These sights are memories that will linger long in the visitor’s mind … a sort of sacred place that God has set apart and placed this great lamp to be tended by a master hand and to guide his own through troubled waters to safe harbors.”
From the reporter’s point of view, the island was lovely and serene, perfect even. However, the reporter did not live there as the keepers did during the winter months when the lake froze over and transportation came to a halt. Most lighthouse keepers on the Great Lakes went back to the mainland to wait out the season, such as Keeper Graves’ assistants. But the Graves family opted to stay on the island, a decision that kept them isolated from the rest of civilization. Those were the most trying times for the family whose only contact with the outside world was the radio, although most of the stations were from Canada and broadcast in French, which the Graves did not understand.

Although the family stocked up as much as possible, Keeper Graves still made occasional, often dangerous trips to the mainland across the ice. When the ice was thick, he took horse-drawn sleighs, but when the ice began to thin and break apart, he had to walk the twenty miles in frigid temperatures and gusty wind. His wife never knew exactly when he’d return, but prayed he would, and despite some close calls, he did.
Galloo Island Lighthouse, 1911, courtesy US Coast Guard

Galloo Island was not a perfect place; in fact, it had its challenges. Many people wouldn’t have enjoyed year-round living on the remote island. But the island was where the Graves family wanted to live.It’s interesting to note that the perception of life on the island could vary from one person to the next.


Living on a beautiful island where everything is blooming is appealing to many, but isolated for five months on a frozen, barren island isn’t very attractive.
So why would people like the Graves family want to endure it? I believe their attitude made the difference. They knew the difficult months would come and they’d have to endure them, and so they did. They also knew the good months would come when the bad months ended, which gave them something to look forward to. They accepted the challenging times in order to enjoy the pleasant times.
We also have the ability to change our outlook by changing our attitude. All we have to do is decide to be content with whatever situation we’re in.
Galloo Island Lighthouse, 1885, courtesy National Archives
The apostle Paul said he’d discovered the secret to changing his attitude. He said, “I know what it is to be in need, and I know what it is to have plenty. I have learned the secret of being content in any and every situation, whether well fed or hungry, whether living in plenty or in want. I can do all this through Him who gives me strength.” (Philippians 4:12-13)

Courtesy of NWS, NOAA

*For more information about Robert Graves, see the July-August 2019 issue of Lighthouse Digest.

Marilyn Turk's blog is here. Contact her at this email.

Thank you, Marilyn, for allowing me to share your blog!

 As always, I am grateful to Kraig Anderson at Lighthouse Friends for use of his images.

Friday, August 2, 2019

Remembering My Visit to New London Ledge Lighthouse



It's a curious lighthouse, a cube of brick set on a concrete caisson with a lantern on top. When I first saw it from shore in 1975, I was struck by its unusual design. I had never seen another one like it, and still have not. It's Gothic...Empire...and rogue...all in one.

Fast forward to 1985, summer if I recall correctly--
Imagine my excitement when I met a guy named Brae Rafferty from Project Oceanology, known locally as Project O.  He came to a lecture I attended, and we talked lighthouse. He told me he regularly took high school students to Ledge Lighthouse and asked it I wanted to tag along on one of the trips. Of course, I said YES!!!!

On a cold October day in 1986, we boarded the Project O boat with about twenty students interested in marine biology. We headed to Great Gull Island first, where the students beachcombed with bags for their treasures. These would be taken back to the classroom for examination and discussion. Of particular interest were the seabirds. Something yummy abounded on and near Great Gull, and the birds were drawn to the feast.

I enjoyed the interaction with the students and the peace of Great Gull Island, but more exciting was being closer to Little Gull Lighthouse, a stone's throw to the west. It sat on a large concrete platform. I would later interview two women who lived on the lighthouse in the 1930s and take copious notes for my book, "Guardians of the Lights."

On the way back to the University of Connecticut (my Alma Mater!) satellite campus at Avery Point, home of Project O, the boat stopped at Ledge Lighthouse to let me off. As we neared the anchorage, three Coast Guardsmen appeared in the doorway and descended the stairs down the side of the caisson to the landing. Hands galore reached for mine! I was thirty-two at the time and a welcome guest on this bachelor outpost.


Courtesy www.lighthousefriends


"Careful, ma'am! The landing is slippery. Take my hand."

Indeed, it was. A thick greenish-brown slime covered the landing and first few steps.

"We try to keep it clean, but it's useless. As fast as the stuff is cleaned away, it forms again."

I was hauled out of the boat, onto the landing, and escorted arm-in-arm by two of the keepers. The wind was howling around that side of the lighthouse. One of the four men aboard the lighthouse was hanging onto the entry door so the wind would not wrangle or purloin it! I wondered how many doors had been loosed from their hinges in storms.

Warm air met my face. My cheeks were rosy by this time, a gift a boat ride usually bestows on me, especially on an autumn day. The warm kitchen of the lighthouse was a welcome place. The keepers slammed the door behind me and offered me a chair and coffee. I took their offer: It was the strongest coffee ever, on par with Navy coffee my husband had told me about..."toss a belaying pin into the pot, and if it doesn't sink, the coffee is ready!"

The four of them stood around, some with hands in pockets, some with their own coffee cups. I began asking questions about their lonely assignment at the lighthouse. Why four of them? One man proffered the explanation and informed me there actually were five men assigned to the lighthouse. Four were always in residence while the fifth man was ashore on leave.

"There's lots to do here," the 1st class bos'un said, the man in charge. "Weather reports, vessel reports, painting, cleaning, small repairs."

I learned that lots of shipping passed, including the subs from the Groton Submarine Base a few miles upriver. Of course, I already knew about the subs and the base, being a seasoned Navy wife by that time. Years later, I would learn about the submarine tender USS Fulton, tied up at the New London piers and also a Ledge Light passerby. My husband would serve as a weapons officer aboard the tender in the 1990s and glide by Ledge Lighthouse himself on a few ocean jaunts.

The Ledge Light keepers told me about their routine, about watches, about tending to the Vega beacon in the lighthouse lantern, about saving people in small boats, "mostly drunks," one said quietly. They also gave me a tour of the place. All the rooms were tidy. They never knew when the Lieutenant from the Coast Guard base would visit, so they had to keep things shipshape. It reminded me of the old U.S. Lighthouse Establishment inspections.

The youngest keeper, entranced with a female visitor, took me upstairs and showed me the bedrooms. His room was the smallest and the least comfortable, as he was the junior man aboard the lighthouse. I asked him if the sleeping was peaceful on the lighthouse, was it quiet and restful. He assured me it was, except when Ernie kept the staff up with his antics.

I had heard about Ernie, the famous ghost of Ledge Light. Varying stories about him claimed he was a keeper on the lighthouse after it was first placed in service in 1909. His wife came to live with him on the lighthouse but grew very lonely and homesick. Being cooped up with her husband 24/7 was not to her liking. She became restless.


Photo from anonalien.com

Among the regular visitors to the lighthouse in its early years was a local ferry captain. Ferries ran to Long Island and Fishers Island; thus, they came and went all day. The visiting ferry captain took to the keeper's wife immediately, and romance ensued. Eventually the keeper's wife informed him she was leaving, going ashore to be with her handsome boyfriend.

The keeper was heartbroken. Some days later, alone and distraught, he climbed to the top of the lighthouse, stepped out on the lantern gallery, and jumped to his death. It is his unhappy spirit that is said to haunt the lighthouse today.


Courtesy U.S. Coast Guard Historian


Fast forward to the early 1990s--
TV studios began calling and asking me if I would appear and talk about the ghost of Ledge Light. What I really desired was to tell some of the real history of the place, and I managed to drop a little of that into my TV interviews. But, truthfully, Ernie the ghost outshone the lighthouse itself. Few people cared to know its history and significance. Ernie was their sole interest.

Roll back to October 1985--
I heard plenty of stories from those Coast Guard guys about Ernie. They swore he moved things around, their plates and cups and books and papers. One guy saw him in the mirror as he was shaving. Another swore Ernie picked up a pillow and tried to suffocate the keeper. He seemed playful but also angry.


Photo from ledgelighthouse.org by Todd Gipstein -- beautiful shot from the lantern showing those amazing diagonal window frames! (And thanks to Todd for his devoted work at Ledge Lighthouse.)


"Take me to the lantern," I requested. By this time, Brae Rafferty had returned from Project O, having bid his students farewell and come to the lighthouse to see how I was faring. We passed through the so-called rec-room with the youngest keeper. He mentioned that Ernie often turned on the TV at random times. The inspecting Lieutenant had blamed it on electrical issues. Ernie also rearranged things on shelves.


A likeness of crusty, old Ernie, perhaps? Photo from newenglandboating.com


Shelves...yes. As we stood in the rec-room, I perused the movie titles and books. There was a significant amount of porn. Brae shrugged. What could I expect from military guys sequestered together on a lonely lighthouse? The entertainment likely reflected their youthful obsessions.

We climbed the stairs to the second floor and then the final stairway to the lantern. No hint of Ernie. If he was hanging about, he didn't want to greet me or Brae. In the lantern, it was warm. The inside windows were clean, as was the optic and its electrical apparatus. I loved the diagonal window frames (officially called astragals) and told Brae what I knew about them, that they allowed rain and snow to slide away easier than square, horizontal frames and that they eliminated false flashes, whereby light reflects off windows and interferes with the true signature of the beacon. Diagonal lantern windows were designed by one of the Stevenson family of Scottish marine engineering fame, an ancestor of Robert Louis Stevenson. Brae told me I was a "lighthouse encyclopedia." (If we could talk now, he's be sure of it!)

The view from the lantern was amazing. I thought about what one of the keepers had said. The men could see the mainland on three sides of them, they could smell Sunday BBQs and hear the sounds of New London and Groton. A mere mile separated them from fun and excitement, as well as their wives and girlfriends. But, they had the best viewing spot in the area when July 4th fireworks were shot off from a barge in the Thames River about a quarter mile north of the lighthouse.

Not long after my visit with the keepers, the Coast Guard began sealing up the lighthouse for automation. The windows all were covered with heavy, waterproof, blue boards. The door was sealed and secured with an imposing lock. In 1987 the keepers were taken off the light, and it was officially closed up. 

It was sad, yes, but also a cost-savings. A Lieutenant in charge of the New London Coast Guard base told me all about LAMP (Lighthouse Automation and Modernization Program). Her points were valid. Keeping five men on the lighthouse was expensive, an annual price tag of more than $150,000. After the lighthouse was automated, that money went elsewhere, to fund Search & Rescue, policing of the waters, educating the public, and maintaining all AtoN (Aids to Navigation) in the area, from simple daymarks to pole beacons to buoys to fog signals to lighthouses, which under the program only needed checkups every six months.

The USCG was saving money, and Ledge Lighthouse was participating in that endeavor. I understood and sympathized. Yet, it seemed the lighthouse and its sister sentries ought to be saved and opened to the public so that all of us might learn what it meant to be a lighthouse keeper. In 1987, when Ledge Light went automatic, that sort of preservation movement was in its infancy. Over the next decade, it grew and grew. In 2000, the National Historic Lighthouse Preservation Act passed in Congress. It was a means to pass on historic lighthouses to worthy preservation groups.

Only a few years ago, the New London Historical Society applied for and was awarded Ledge Lighthouse. It now has its own preservation/education group too, and it is a public destination. We can all go there now and learn about why it was built and what life was like for its keepers. (Visit ledgelighthouse.org and see a video from WTNH News * TV here.) 

I wonder though, is Ernie happy about this evolution of the lighthouse? Perhaps I should join one of the tours and find out for myself. He might even remember me from 33 years ago! Or not.


'Round about 33 years ago...


P.S. There are no records I can find that indicate a keeper ever died at Ledge Lighthouse, nor one whose wife deserted him for a ferry captain. Most of us believe Ernie is an imaginary ghost, cooked up by bored light keepers to impress visitors to the lighthouse....especially a thirty-two-year-old lady who came to visit the lighthouse in October 1986. My feelings on the matter? 

"Booooooooo!!!!!!"