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Friday, June 21, 2019
An Arboreal Lighthouse
Could a tree serve as a lighthouse? Not really. But it could certainly serve as a navigational aid. One such tree did in the mid-1800s, likely as the first NAV-AID at Grays Harbor, Washington. The tree is long gone now, but its story lives on. Below is a fascinating article from the U.S. Lighthouse Society's Winter 1998 issue of The Keepers Log. Click on each page to view a larger version.
Saturday, June 1, 2019
Lightkeeper Memories
These pages are from a booklet I produced for a lighthouse keeper's reunion in Washington about twelve years ago. Some of the information was sent to me by email and condensed for the booklet. I'm glad I was able to interview the keepers themselves or their descendants before they passed.
Sunday, April 28, 2019
The Removal of Dangerous Ripple Rock in British Columbia
This blog entry is not about a lighthouse, but it is of interest to lighthouse fanciers. It details the removal of a dangerous navigational hazard on the watery route of the Inside Passage, British Columbia. The area is marked by several lighthouses, but until Ripple Rock was destroyed the lights were sometimes of little use. Buoys too.
By JEREMY LEETE
For years, I had been told stories of how
Without warning, the idle water beneath us changed to a fast-moving torrent. The tidal flow began bullying the boat as we approached
I was walking a fine line between excitement and total terror. This was a lot for a 13-year-old kid from
From 1875 until 1958, Ripple Rock claimed many lives and pierced the hulls of numerous vessels with its pair of sharp canine-like peaks, sending them to the bottom of the turbulent channel.
'Old Rip' as it became known, bit into its first victim in 1875. The sidewheel steamer U.S.S. Saranac was heading north to
The captain should have heeded the pilot's warning as Sadilek recalls, ". . . when in the midst of a whirlpool, the ship refused to answer her helm and was for a moment beaten about by the angry water, when all of the sudden there came a crash that shook the ship as if it had been fired into a battery of guns. . . . The fearful rush of water as it closed over her was so powerful that it would have killed any living being who might have been aboard."
Amazingly, no lives were lost as the steamer went down, but
In the coming years, Ripple Rock would sink another 119 vessels and take 114 lives. It earned a reputation as the fiercest, and arguably, the most dangerous area for nautical navigation in
After years of debate, lobbying and petitions, the Canadian government finally agreed that something had to be done to make
Their protests went unheard and in 1943, a huge barge, with a drilling rig, was brought in and secured over Ripple Rock with several anchors. The idea was to drill many holes into both peaks and pack them full of explosives. But the resilient rock would not relent so easily.
The strong tidal currents proved too much for the anchor cables to withstand. Under the immense tension created by the powerful flow, the first cable snapped less than 24 hours after the operation began. Subsequent cable snappings occurred, on average every 48 hours, and the project was eventually abandoned. Another attempt was made by barge in 1945, but this time the barge was secured to both shores with heavy overhead cables. Again the turbulent tides around Ripple Rock were underestimated and the attempt failed.
Perhaps blowing up Ripple Rock was not the answer. One alternative that was proposed was to bypass Ripple Rock altogether by building a channel through
In 1953, the National Research Council did a study on the feasibility of tunneling under
After careful planning by engineers, around-the-clock work began in November 1955. Progress was slow but steady as the 75-man crew, working in three shifts, gained an average of about six feet per day of new tunnel. The operation took 27 months to complete and cost in excess of $3.1 million. The result was a 570-foot vertical shaft at
With 1,375 tons of explosives packed into the peaks, April 5, 1958 was the date set for detonation . On that day, at 9:31 a.m., Dr. Victor Dolmage, consulting engineer for the Ministry of Public Works, pushed the plunger that set off the largest non-nuclear explosion ever. The blast pulverized 370,000 tons of rock and displaced 320,000 tons of water. Rock and debris rocketed 1,000 feet into the air. The explosion also created a 25-foot tidal wave which quickly dissipated and caused no damage.
When the dust settled, instead of being just nine feet under the surface at low tide, the highest pinnacle of Ripple Rock was now 47 feet deep. The demolition operation said Dolmage, "was a complete success." The undersea menace had finally been subdued.
And there were few, if any, adverse effects stemming from the blast. Norman Hacking, Vancouver Province marine editor during that time, witnessed the explosion and wrote, "We saw a few bug-eyed snapper but that was all." And in fact, there was a very small number of fish casualties. Planners intentionally scheduled the explosion for April when there were few salmon in the area. There were no documented cases of any dead salmon or herring from the Ripple Rock explosion.
For residents of
"I was assistant manager of Painter's Lodge at the time," recalled
Tom Hall, 96, was a commercial fisherman in the waters around
When the
Hearing of the demolition project, Hall decided to witness the event from a hill top near Quathiaski Cove on Quadra island. "It started to rain," he recollects while playing back the distant memory. "I didn't see anything; I didn't feel anything; I didn't hear anything." But, he says, "I would have had a good view if it didn't start raining."
The best view of the explosion was from the specially built bunker overlooking the
Since the taming of 'Old Rip,' vessels, large and small, have traveled through
Yet, even with all the carnage caused by the shallow menace, I somehow wish I could have seen it churning the water into a white froth in the peak of a strong tide. But today, I can only imagine Ripple Rock's performance before its deadly teeth were yanked.
TAMING RIPPLE ROCK
By DAVE KIFFER
Friday PM
Half a century ago, sailing the Inside Passage from
Over the next two centuries, more than 20 large vessels and 100 smaller craft foundered over the tides rushing across the twin underwater peaks of Ripple Rock near the Vancouver Island community of
Former
We were really in trouble, Miller told the Tacoma News Tribune in 1975. Dad had hurt his hand, Mom had scalded her foot and a halibut fisherman who was with us hurt his back, I was the only healthy one.
Miller - a nine year old in 1910 - said that she had to try to keep floating logs away from the boat in the maelstrom.
Dad held me by the seat of my britches while I hung over the side and pushed the logs with a pole, Miller told the Tribune. Then boat began to sink lower into the whirlpool. Dad started yelling instructions. He told me to move some heavy gas cans from one side of the boat to the other. I don't know exactly what effect my work had, but we pulled free.
In a website devoted to
Joe Sadilek was a crewman on the ship and later offered his observations, according to Leete.
". . . when in the midst of a whirlpool, the ship refused to answer her helm and was for a moment beaten about by the angry water, when all of the sudden there came a crash that shook the ship as if it had been fired into a battery of guns. . . . The fearful rush of water as it closed over her was so powerful that it would have killed any living being who might have been aboard, Sadilek wrote.
The steamer sank, but remarkably no lives were lost. Later vessels would not be so lucky and by 1958, more than 110 people had drowned on "Old Rip".
Over the years, Canadian officials debated how best to deal with the problem. Finally in 1931 a Marine Commission's findings brought a recommendation to remove Ripple Rock, but it was 1942 before an attempt was finally authorized.
Surprising enough, according to the website of the
Despite the extreme hazard the rock created, its removal was bitterly opposed by some, who saw it as a bridge support for a railroad connecting
In 1943 a drilling barge was floated over the rock, held in place by one and half inch steel cables attached to 1000 tons worth of concrete anchors. The idea was drill holes in the rock, fill them with explosives and incrementally blast the rock with several small explosions. But the currents in the narrows played havoc with the 150-foot barge and the anchor lines broke over and over again. The attempt was abandoned.
Two years later, a second attempt was made. This time the plan was to attach the barge to two 11-ton overhead steel lines on a 3,500 foot cable. But that failed to hold the barge in place for very long as well. It had been estimated that 1,500 drill holes were needed, but only 139 were drilled before that attempt was terminated. Nine workers died in the two attempts.
A decade passed before the National Research Council came up with a plan to tunnel under the rocks from nearby
It may take one of history's greatest underwater explosions to do the job, the Associated Press reported in November of 1955. The public works ministry estimated the cost might run to $2 million. Specifications for the removal project call for sinking a 500-foot vertical shaft at Maud Island, tunneling 2,100 feet under the narrows and running 300 foot shafts upwards into (each) rock.
The AP noted that - if the blast was successful - the depth would be increased to 40 feet at low tide.
The work began in November of 1955 and took nearly 27 months., according the
An average of 75 men lived at the base camp (on
When the digging was complete nearly 1,400 tons of Nitramex 2H explosives were put in the "coyote" tunnels inside the two pinnacles.
"With 1,375 tons of explosives packed into the peaks, April 5, 1958 was the date set for detonation," Leete wrote. On that day, at 9:31 a.m., Dr. Victor Dolmage, consulting engineer for the Ministry of Public Works, pushed the plunger that set off the largest non-nuclear explosion ever. The blast pulverized 370,000 tons of rock and displaced 320,000 tons of water. Rock and debris rocketed 1,000 feet into the air. The explosion also created a 25-foot tidal wave which quickly dissipated and caused no damage.
There was also little apparent damage to area sea life, according to Leete.
Norman Hacking,
The
No damage was sustained, the website reported. Careful monitoring by the Fisheries Department found that five orca, a school of porpoises, two sea lions and one fur seal seen near the area before the explosion were all seen again afterward, although understandably somewhat perturbed.
The explosion was more than a local spectacle. The event was broadcast live across the country and in the
"I was assistant manager of Painter's Lodge at the time,"
Like the rest of the country, most
With the top of the rock sheered off, the south pinnacle's depth was increased from 9 feet to 45 feet at low tide and the north pinnacle's depth was increased to 70 feet. But - as Leete found when he tried to navigate the narrows in a 15 foot boat a few years after the blast - Ripple Rock wasn't completely tamed.
"Without warning, the idle water beneath us changed to a fast-moving torrent. The tidal flow began bullying the boat as we approached
Dave Kiffer is a
freelance writer living in Ketchikan ,
Alaska .
Above image from McLeans Magazine, April 1955.
After the removal of Ripple Rock....photo taken in 1958.
I think the Ministry of Forests, Lands & Natural Resource Operations has a sense of humor. But...do be careful in the area of Ripple Rock.
Should you travel the Inside Passage on a small cruise ship, the crew will tell you the story of Ripple Rock. It's colorful!
Friday, April 5, 2019
Farewell at Split Rock Lighthouse
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| Long time caretake and keeper of Split Rock Lighthouse, Minnesota--Lee Radzak. Photo here and at the end of this blog entry are courtesy of Duluth News Tribune |
Retirement is a long-sought-after goal for many of us. For Lee Radzak, caretaker at Split Rock Lighthouse, the time has come to hand the keys and pass the torch to someone else. Lee and his wife Jane and their two kids have had a wonderful home at the lighthouse for over thirty years. They will be missed.
I knew Lee by mail long before I met him. My daughter and I stopped at the lighthouse on our way across the states in 1997. Lee was a fantastic host and showed us around the compound. The light station was in marvelous shape, thanks to Lee and his family and the many volunteers on hand to help.
In tribute to Lee and his work, here's an article he helped me write and illustrate in 1991. It appeared in my quarterly column for the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Admin's in-house magazine, Mariners Weather Log. I was surprised to learn that Lee is a gifted artist! Some of his drawings are seen in the article.
I wish him much rest and fun in his retirement. He deserves it!
Monday, March 25, 2019
Point Cabrillo Lighthouse
Thursday, March 14, 2019
Keeper Katie!
Have you heard of Katie Walker, the tiny German gal who married a lighthouse keeper and lived on Robbins Reef Lighthouse in New York Harbor? At first, she hated the place and refused to unpack her suitcase. Later, she relaxed and grew to love the water-bound lighthouse. In fact, after husband died, Katie became the keeper of the light. She struggled to obtain the position. The Lighthouse Service thought she was too small. Little did they know that Shakespeare's famous quote is true, at least for Katie: :Though she be little, she be but fierce."
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| Katie Walker on the ladder of Robbins Reef Lighthouse. All photos from the Coast Guard Historian's Office |
Katie is profiled in two of my books, Guardians of the Lights and The Lightkeeper's Menagerie. Her stories are heartwarming and amazing. Now, in her honor, a statue is being erected in New York. Here's an article about it--
A monument for Katherine Walker, lighthouse keeper
Katherine Walker was a boundary breaking lighthouse keeper in New York Harbor. Now she'll get a monument.

Katherine Walker was a boundary breaking lighthouse keeper in New York Harbor. Now she'll get a monument. Photo Credit: Michael McWeeney | Photography/Michael McWeeney
Tending the light at the Robbins Reef Lighthouse in a busy, dangerous stretch of water between Staten Island and New Jersey meant the following: Fussing over eight oil-burning lamps backed by reflectors in a frame. The frame rotated under the power of a slowly descending weight. The lamp wicks had to be trimmed. The reflectors had to be perfectly clean. In bad weather the lighthouse keeper would go out on a narrow catwalk, scraping ice or snow from each window.
From the early 1890s to 1919, all this was the job of Katherine Walker, who will soon be receiving a monument at the Staten Island ferry landing, one of the four memorials announced last week as part of the city’s She Built NYC initiative.
Walker was 4 foot 10, an immigrant from Germany who learned English from her second husband. At the time, she was the only female keeper on the Eastern Seaboard for a lighthouse entirely surrounded by water, according to Erin Urban, founding director of the Noble Maritime Collection on Staten Island, which owns and is currently restoring the lighthouse.
Walker lived an unusual and hardy life, moving to America with her son Jacob in 1882 after the death of her first husband. In Sandy Hook, New Jersey, she met and married a Civil War Navy veteran and lighthouse keeper who moved her to the even less comfortable Robbins Reef lighthouse about a mile off shore in New York Harbor. It was a move she strongly opposed.
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“I refused to unpack my trunks at first,” she wrote, according to Urban’s book “Perspective: Robbins Reef.”
But soon she grew accustomed to life on the rock, where supplies had to be boated in, and after her lighthouse-keeper second husband died of bronchopneumonia she took over his duties.
Duties that included rowing out in her dory to save the victims of wrecks or accidents, at least 50 of whom she pulled from the waves over her career, according to Urban.
Then there was fearsome sleet and snow and wind that lashed the tower and the chain that fastened her rowboat, a chain that came loose and hit her in the eye one winter.
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It was a job that entailed working through the night and all sorts of preparatory tasks during the day, and not much time to get into Manhattan, an island she found frenzied and bewildering (outer borough residents today might sympathize).
When her foghorn was malfunctioning, according to “Perspective,” she had to climb to the top of the tower and hammer on a bell to signal to the mainland that repairs were necessary.
The lighthouse was heated by a wood stove and had no refrigeration. She sometimes had to row her children to school herself. There were hard times, including when her 8-year-old granddaughter was visiting the lighthouse in 1905 and fell down the metal stairs, dying days later.
It was a perilous place, and not just for sailors.
“More difficult to care for than a family of children,” Walker described the lighthouse.
But on a clear night, her light could be seen from 12 miles away. It was a savior and a landmark for those entering or leaving NYC: during World War I, she would unfurl an American flag to greet the transport vessels passing through the harbor. She served so long and so well that she became a fixture, lauded by mariners and newspapers.
In 1919 she received a letter telling her that, as a 71-year-old, she had reached the age for mandatory retirement.
She reluctantly did so, says Urban, moving to a house on Staten Island close to the water, walking down to the shore every day and looking at her old lighthouse. She died in 1931.
“I think the statue will bring her to much greater attention,” says Urban.
Wednesday, March 13, 2019
Tour of Croatia's Lighthouses
If you have any trouble viewing this, or for more info about this tour, please visit
our Croatia Tour page of our website: https://uslhs.org/tours/ croatia-2019
To reserve your spot, call headquarters at 415-362-7255 or email jeff@uslhs.org
United States Lighthouse Society
9005 Point No Point Road NE
Hansville, WA 98340
Phone: (415) 362-7255 Fax: (415) 362-7464
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